Toe Up Socks with Heel Flap – Part IV – Gusset and Heel

Have you tried your sock on yet? If not, now would be a good time to try it on. It’ll be naturally loose at the end where the live stitches are, but you should get a feel for how it is going to fit when finished.

Now is also a good time to recheck your gauge again.

You should have a few good inches of knitting done (unless you’re knitting for tiny feet), so measure your row gauge over as many inches as possible. My sock is nearly 7″ long at this point, so I can comfortably count the rows over at least 5″ and divide the count by 5 to check my row gauge. If your count is different, it is not too late to recalculate your values before proceeding.

If your stitch gauge is different to your original swatch and the sock is too loose or too tight, your best bet is to start again using the values you’ve just measured. If you didn’t knit your swatch in the round, or possibly got bored and decided 1″ is enough to get a decent idea of your gauge, then these factors could contribute to your gauge being different.

Toe Up Socks - Gusset

Now we’re going to increase for the gusset. The gusset increases are indentical to the toe increases, except we’re only increasing on the first half of the sock stitches (the heel half), instead of both halves.

Increase at the beginning and end of the first half in next and every alternate round for a total of ______(M) rounds.

You should have ______(E + M) stitches at this point - ______(J) instep stitches, ______(J) heel stitches and ______(M) gusset stitches - ______(M ÷ 2) gusset stitches on each side of the heel. It may assist you to place a stitch marker between the gusset and heel stitches at this point.

Knit across the ______(M ÷ 2) gusset stitches. You should be at the start of the heel stitches, ready to start the heel shaping. We shape the heel using short rows . If you are unfamiliar with short rows, see for a tutorial on short rows using wrapped stitches. To shape the heel, we’re going to work back and forth (instead of in the round) on the heel stitches only, working two less stitches on every row.

Right Side: K ______(J – 2), wrap the next stitch and turn.
Wrong Side: P ______(J – 4), wrap the next stitch and turn.

Continue in this way for ______(L - 2) more rows, ending with a right side row (including wrap and turn).

Purl across to the last heel stitch, picking up the wraps as you go. Purl the last heel stitch together with a gusset stitch.
Turn. Slip 1 and knit across to the other end of the heel stitches until you get to the last stitch, picking up the wraps. SSK the last heel stitch together with a gusset stitch.

Now we’ll work the heel flap in Heel Stitch as follows.

Row 1: Slip 1, Purl across row to last heel stitch, purl last heel stitch together with a gusset stitch.
Row 2: Slip 1, (K 1, Slip 1) across row to last heel stitch. SSK last heel stitch with a gusset stitch.

Repeat the last two rows until all gusset stitches have been used up.

You should be back to ______(E) stitches again and ready to work the leg.

Leave a Reply